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FRANCE BURGUNDY
Author:  M.A. de la Mata
Copyright Protected



BURGUNDY WHITE

1988 Denis Pere & Fils Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru.
Aromas were practically non-existent. However, in the palate it became an expansive, rich and complex wine, with flavors ranging from grapey to orange rind, azaleas to vanilla. All this in a focused and concentrated manner. This wine is worth laying down for another 5 years.

1990 Meursault, Mommessin, Bourgogne.
Good concentration, at its peak or pretty near. Gamy and fruity notes mingled with vanilla, honey and fig flavors (Very good to excellent, a bargain).

1991 Chassagne-Montrachet Chartron et Trebuchet.
It was good and concentrated, yet it lacked elegance and definition. Perhaps, its youth may had been the cause. I noted fruity-grapy flavors, with creamy-oaky vanilla roundness. The finish was long, but one-dimensional.

1992 St. Veran Clos de L’Eveque, Mommessin, Bourgogne ($16.99).
100% Chardonnay, 6 months in French oak.  Although 1992 was a great vintage for ready to drink Bourgogne Blancs, the downside is that whites wines at the villages level, and below may not be enjoyable for long.  This St. Veran is not an exception but an example.  It is over the hill, with Sherry-like nose, and oxidized flavors.  The finish gives you a brief glimmer of the grandiosity of this wine in its youth, but this is now and that was then…  Not recommended.

1993 Chardonnay Cuvee "Les Forgets", Patrick Javillier, Mersault ($26.99).
As soon as the bottle was uncorked at the restaurant, and in spite of the delicious aromas emanating from the open kitchen, a refreshing citrus fragrance surrounded our table. This was a deeply aromatic wine with hints of cream, orange rind, spicy notes and a crisp long lasting finish. Ideal with oysters, shrimp scampi, pastas, veal and pan seared free range chicken.

1993 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Pierre Moreau, Bourgogne ($??).
100% Chardonnay, wood aging evident, but period unknown.  Beautiful aromas of vanilla, and grapefruit with gammy nuances.  In the palate it becomes an expansive with deep peach, grapefruit and smoky character.  Long finish with elegant notes of vanillin and gammy grapefruit.  Good aging potential - wait 6 years. Highly Recommended.  Creamy dishes containig cilantro and ginger.

1994 Chateau Pouilly, Pouilly-Fuisse.
Pleasant, light, delicate and offering layered flavors of citrus, creamy and ripe cantaloupe, with a seamless finish (Very good Value).

1995 Chardonnay, Mommessin, VDP, $8.99**.
100% Chardonnay, no wood aging.  A fantastic value from Mommessin which we had to bring back due to demand in the market.  It is fresh and clean with Chardonnay fruit flavors and no wood to interfere with the grape.  Great for fish dishes and sipping!

1994 Deux Roches Macon Davaye, Burgundy ($11.25).
Oxidized.  "For the price" is  not an excuse.  Not recommended.

1994 Corps de Garde, Cotes D’Auxerre, Burgundy  ($12.25).
Tasteless. Not worth the money.

1994 Meursault Les Tillets, P. Javillier, Meursault ($47.99).
100% Chardonnay, organically produced, 9 months of barrel aging in French oak.  This is perhaps one of the best, if not the best Mersaults available.  It is elegant, balanced and delicate, with a beautiful citrus-vanilla nose, and a profound feel in the palate.  It offers clean citrus fruit with creamy nuances and gamy hints.  The finish is very long with a firm impression of grapefruit, vanilla, and deep florality.  A meal by itself.

1994 Pouilly-Fuisse, Ch Pouilly, Bourgogne ($22.99).
  100% Chardonnay, cold fermented, no wood aging.  Perhaps one of the most elegant Pouilly-Fuisse in the market.  This is a special wine since the Pouilly-Fuisse sub-appellation in Burgundy produces mostly co-op wines.  However, this wine comes from one of the only three Chateaux in the sub-region.  Delicate citrus aromas emanate from a swirling glass.  It continues its elegance in the palate with honey, hazelnut and peachy flavors.  The finish is long and lingering with orange rind and melon bouquets.  Pastas, seafood.


BURGUNDY RED

1987 Volnay Premier Cru, Drouhin.
This was quite an interesting wine. It was flinty and earthy in the nose, with a bountifull palate of cherry fruit and earthy-mineral flavors. It displayed good strucutre and elegant roses and spice finish. Delicious!

1983 Alain Pierre, Clos de Roi Grand Cru. Expectacular wine with beautiful aromas, fully open and ready to drink. Intense flavors of raspberries, blackberries, cassis and nuts, are nicely meshed together. Powerful finish with peppery and gamey notes going back and forth.

1985 Mercurey Domaine Fabien et Louis Saier 1er Cru.
This wine exhibited brick color with cream and raspberry aromas and clove and cherry flavors. Licorice was the predominant flavor in the finish. Tannins and acidity still firm. It may improve over the next 2-5 years.

1989 Savigny-Le-Beaune, Drouhin, France ($??).
100% Pinot Noir.  Fantastic aroma of ripe cherry and earthy hints.  Wholesome plate with weight, texture and depth.  Outstanding long finish with fruit galore.  Recommended.  Beef Bourginon.

1990 Faveley Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru. This wine had hints of mint, and black fruit. Although, due to its youth it was not as refined and elegant, but give it time...

1990 Clos de Ormes 1er Cru, Maison Joseph Faiveley.
The aromas were closed-in, wet rock like. However, this wine exploded in the palate with a miryad of blackberry, cherry, smoky flavors and nice hints of black pepper. Very deep and complex with a hell-uva-finish. Wait 7 yr.

1990 Faiveley, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru. It displayed a purple core with fusia edges obviating its youth. I wrote in my notes: "potent and very f_cking young". It showed firm acidity and tannins, with 10-12 years before it becomes a more approachable wine! I noted concentrated cherry, tar, smoke, charcoal, mint, vanilla and on, and on.

1990 Clos de la Marechale 1er Cru, Faiveley, Burgundy. This wine offers very good concentration and extraction, obviously the result of planning for the long haul on the wine maker's part. Velvety fine tannin and elegant bright cherry, smoky and cedary flavors with every sip. Hold on to this one for 7-10 years.

1990 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Mommessin, Bourgogne.
Elegant and well behaved wine, perfectly balanced, with well defined watermelon, raspberry, coffee bean and spice flavors. Very long and delicate finish. It is a must for instant satisfaction freaks (Excellent).

1990 Beaune Chouacheux, Louis Jadot, Bourgogne ($??).
100% Pinot Noir, unknown wood aging period.  From one of Bourgogne’s best vintages since 1948 comes this muscular and full bodied Pinot Noir.  It offered deep terroir/earthy flavors with an interesting unidentifiable spice flavor, uncharacteristic of Beaune. Very long finish and worth matching with prime rib.  Highly recommended.  Drink over the next 4 years.

1990 Vosne Romanee, Drouhin ($??).
100% Pinot Noir, unknown wood aging period.  Nice cacao nose, yet thin and vegetable.  Very short finish.  Surprising for a 1990 Burgundy.  Not Recommended.

1990 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots, Mommessin, Bourgogne.
. This wine is a single vineyard wine with a production of 50 barrels. It should be laid down for another 15 years, or if you must open it now, drink at least 8 hours, or even better, the day after you open it. It is still quite tannic, concentrated, and effusively rich. Coffee, spice, chocolate, mint, eucalyptus, are all flavors that come to mind with every sip. This one you can’t miss. Believe me, it is worth the price and twice that too (Outstanding, Best Value).

1990 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, Mommessin, Bourgogne (4/96).
. This wine is a "Monopole", meaning that it comes from a single vineyard, of which the entire production of grape goes to only one producer/negotiant for the making of one wine and one wine only. Clos de Tart is one of the oldest single holdings in Burgundy with its production history dating back to 1140 AD Its grapes are produced organically and the vines trimmed in the same manner century after century. This wine is exquisite, to put it mildly. It will age well for another 10 years, but if you must…the tannin and acidity levels are well balanced with the wine being approachable, so you can enjoy it now, if you can afford it that is.

1990 Clos du Tart Grand Cru, Mommessin, Morey St. Denis ($100.00) (2/97). 
100% Pinot Noir.  The Clos du Tart property is considered to be one of the oldest, if not the oldest, vineyard in Bourgogne, with records dating back to 1140.  The property belongs to the Cisticircan Nuns, thus the label on the bottle exhibits the Papal emblem.  Enough of history, and lets get on with the wine.  I had tasted this wine 15 months ago, and reviewed it very positively.  This time…it hit the "T" spot.  It is perhaps the most elegant, complex and delicate Pinot Noir tasted over the last 15 months.  It is fully aromatic, with complex earthy, ripe fruit aromas and hints of spice.  In the palate, it is an expansive wine packed with flavor, just like a top Pinot should be.  To describe this wine in mortal words is nearly impossible, but here it goes;  an aleconic elixir of palindromic qualities appealing to the un-ventured depths of the sapiens id...  Drink it by itself, preferably under dim candle light and with your beloved one very close to your side.

1990 Rully Rouge "Les Villeranges", Faiveley, Bourgogne, France ($?? a cellar find).
  100% Pinot Noir, 16 months in French Nevars oak.  Closed-in, and initially austere, with medium tannin and balanced acidity.  Fruit galore!  After 45 minutes, this wine became fully aromatic and exuberant with complex spice and cherry fruit layers that led to a long finish.  Wait 5 more years.

1990 Cotes de Beaune 1er Cru "Les Bressandes", Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges ($??).
  100% Pinot Noir, 16 months in French oak.  It is too early for this wine to show its splendor.  Tannic back bone with good acidity and neither nose nor discernible palate at this point.  One and a half hours later, this wine started to display a roasted coffee bean intensity and blackberry flavors with a medium finish.  The wine was opened 10 years too early.  However, I doubt if it the fruit will outlast the tannin.  Not ready yet.

1990 Gevrey-Chambertin, R. Le Clerc Clos Prieur, Bourgogne ($27.59).
100% Pinot Noir, some oak aging.  A truly awful wine, with overly ripe and cooked fruit flavors, significantly pruny and a very short finish (thank Baccus).  Not recommended.  Puppy Chow.

1991 Santenay, Drouhin, France ($??).
  100% Pinot Noir.  Another one of those wines whose aromas do not follow in the palate.  Decent and bright raspberry aromas that lead to a hollow middle palate and a bitter/chemical alike finish.  Not recommended.

1991 Vosnee Romanee, Rene Engel, Bourgogne ($27.59).
  100% Pinot Noir, some oak aging.  Nice, but simple, at the level of a Bourgogne Rouge (a basic Pinot Noir) with a sub-appellation name, a point-blank rip off.  It offered good balance, peppery and coffee nut flavors.  Short finish.  Another one of those "…well…for the money…" wines.  Roasted fowl, chicken.

1990 "Les Suchos" 1er Cru, Mommessin, Vosnee Romanee, France ($46.99).
100% Pinot Noir with 19 months in French Alliers oak.  ORGASMIC!…Need I write more?  Buy it, taste it and write me an e-mail.  Aging potential 12 more years and perhaps beyond.  However, you can start enjoying it NOW!

1991 La Forge 1er Cru, Mommessin, Morey St. Denis ($64.99).
100% Pinot Noir, 16 months in French oak.  This is the second label of the Clos de Tart Grand Cru Vineyard (see description below).  It is made from the younger vines in the Clos du Tart property, ranging between 40 and 80 years in age.  This is a rich and concentrated Pinot with smoky aromas and flavors, good weight in the palate, smooth as silk, and a very long finish.  This vintage release has the benefit of the fruit utilized for its making, consisting of the entire production of the Clos du Tart vineyard, 40 to 80 year-old vines (younger vines) an 80 to 115++ year-old vines.  The later generally produce the grapes for their Grand Cru bottling.  However, 1991 was not a very good vintage year, thus the nuns tending the property declassified the Grand Cru, thus no Clos du Tart Grand Cru was produced during for that vintage.  Subsequently, the entire production, as stated above, old and young vines went toward the production of this wine, La Forge.  Folks, this is a bargain wine, since you are getting a 1er Cru Pinot with the quality of a Grand Cru, in part, and for the 40% less cost.  You can cellar this wine for another 12 years, if not longer.  Filet Mignon.

1992 Santenay, Faiveley, Burgundy. This was a very nice wine. It possesses abundant fruit with focused citrus flavors and a slight touch of vanilla. The finish is lasting and clean.

1992 Cotes de Beaune Villages, Mommessin, Cotes de Beaune ($18.99).
100% Pinot Noir, 12 months in French Oak.  This is fantastic, ready to drink wine, as well as a hell of a bargain.  It offers an elegant nose of spice and ripe red fruits, with a ephemeral feel and finish including a touch of vanillin, raspberry, clove and ripe berries.  Long and very pleasant finish  Fettuccini, lamb in garlic sauce, asparagus in sesame seed oil.

1992 Bone-Mares Grand Cru, Groffier et fils, Morey-St-Denis ($??)(8/97).
100% Pinot Noir, unknown wood aging period, 12.5% Alc. By Vol., 750 ml.  A distinct spearmint and spice streak in the aroma make this a very unique Pinot.  Ripe berries, with a continuation of the spearmint, subtly, and earthy-coffee nuances.  Long finish, with delicate fruit and spice hints.  Best with game and beef.   It will improve over the next 8 years.  VHR

1993 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Mommessin, Bourgogne ($11.99).
  100% Pinot Noir, 6 months in French Oak.  A great bargain! If you see it get it, since all there is in the US has been brought to NC (by truly yours) and sold out.  It is tough to pass up on wine like this at the price offered.  It has velvety-soft tannin and the typical Burgundy Pinot flavors of wild berries and spicy nutmeg.  Medium-long finish with berries and cassis notes.  Pork, chicken, smoked salmon, trout.

1993 Bourgogne Rouge, Monregard-Moneret, Bourgogne, France ($13.99).
  100% Pinot Noir, unknown wood aging period.  This is more like it!  Still quite young and a pleasant surprise, particularly from a wimpy vintage as 1993 was in Bourgogne.  Tight, focused, well structured with significant amounts of underlying fruit.  Still tannic and acidic, this wine should age well for another 8 years.  Recommended, but wait at least 1 year before uncorking.

1993 Beaune, Mommessin, Beaune ($19.99).
  100% Pinot Noir, 14 months in French oak.  This is great Beaune with still firm tannin that will give away a great wine in another 2 years.  The fruit will survive for sure.  It is a mouth full of Pinot with depth, color and concentration.  It just needs a bit of time.  This wine would be a great addition for the 5 to 8 year shelf in your cellar, and a bargain.  Steak!

1994 Beaujolais Nouveau, G. Debeauff, Beaujolais.
Yes, I tasted the damned wine once more. This is among the best Nouveau that I have tasted over the last three years. It is still crapy wine, but if you must. The wine is clean and fruity, devoid of the bitterness found in some of the Nouveau in previous years. The price range is due to the fact that you pay a premium for purchasing the wine now (air freight charges are quite steep). You may want to wait until mid December and purchase it for $5.99.

1994 Volnay, Jos. Voillot, Bourgogne ($11.59).
  100% Pinot Noir and some aging in oak.  Nice, elegant and balanced, with light feel in the palate, a touch of vanillin and some tannin in the very short finish.  It may improve with time.  Shellfish.

1995 Beaujolais Villages, Mommessin, Beaujolais ($10.99).
100% Gammay, 4 months in French oak.  Very nice nose welcomes you to a glass of this exemplary Beaujolais.  It is reminiscent of cherries and raspberries.  It is a straight forward wine with generous fruit and light palate feel.  The finish is exactly as its aroma and flavors, fruit galore and very pleasant.  Grilled chicken and cous-cous.